Custom Boards & Mast Mounts

looks like form ply which is designed for things not to stick to! If any one is interested I could probably sort some sort of forum offer on the foil mount insets I do so at least you guys have a simple good solid reliable option.

I’m looking for the best solution to flush mount the batteries, ESC and electronics within the board. What hatch system or dry box setup is everyone using? It would be good to see a few ideas that others have come up with.

Hi looking for a bit of guidance
I looking to put a US box foil mount (hd foam) into my board. My board is soft foam like a surf board.

Wondering if anyone got suggestions the best way to do this, video maybe
Cheers for any feedback in advance
Steve

Sure. Video is here. https://gofoil.com/tuttle-box-info/

Aaron

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Thanks for the reply.
I am not using turtle box as i got a naish foil with the mast fitting using a 4 screw attachment into US foil mount box which has 2 x 10 inch tracks.
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cheers
steve

Longboard finboxes should work nicely. Cheep as chips!

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I assuming that the 3 pins are the connectors for the motor, what you done in the board glued the mating connector in there?

That’s it. Plug and play. 1.5mm rubber seal between them. Little vasoline on the rubber before each use.

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Morgansteven, I have a thread over on the standupzone that has a few pics of an install of one of those boxes. I’m also building my own foil.

If you don’t have experience with repairing or building surfboards it’s a pretty serious project for a first repair/build.

The basics are, measure, align everything as best you can, route out the hole to the depth of the cassette and fare the edges of the hole . Put a layer of glass under the cassette and let it overlap up onto the top on all sides. I used 4oz. Then I put a large carbon patch (6oz) over the top with a layer of 4 oz to sand. Grind the boxes like a regular glass in fin box install. YouTube has some videos on longboard fin box installs to show how that’s done.

If that explanation is not detailed enough you might want to get a surfboard ding repair person to help with your board. If you are going to give it a go, I’d spend some time in swaylocks forum.

I feel bad saying the same thing on this forum over and over, but composite construction can take a little time to figure out and mistakes are messy and cost a lot in materials. But like anything, if you want to learn to do it, you can. My only thought is that if you’re only building one board it’s probably good to get some help or hire it out so you don’t mess up a board and your cassette.

I’m struggling with the same thing on the 3D printing for one of these builds, I’m probably going to hire someone to make the parts as I can’t see making more than one motor assembly. I can’t justify the time to figure out all the intricacies of 3D printing for a single project.

If I do another board I’ll try to get a video of the install process. First I have to learn to ride a foil. Wish me luck.

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Surfcowbay, cheers for the feedback.
I installed the foil mount , with a layer of fiber glass etc, I got some epoxy resin from seabase in uk which they use to install fin boxes and foil mounts etc.
I mixed the epoxy as per instructions 2 to 1 added glass bubbles etc and installed the box. There was a bit of heat and when i cut out the holes in top surface for batteries etc i noticed that it had melted all the surrounding foam around the High density foil mount.
My concern now is how i going to complete the board build without melting rest of board?

Epoxy generates heat when it cures. You can fill up the missing foam with more epoxy mixed with glass bubbles. You can use a slow hardening epoxy. They never get hot. I use West Systems epoxy with the slow and the fast hardener. I only use the fast hardener in thin films and not where it would be insulated.

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@tunnelvision Are the fin boxes strong enough for the torque of our foil setups? I guess it depends on what foam it is mounted in and how well its done?
I’m planning on using 2 long fin boxes in by hacked old windsurf board. I’m not sure it will be strong enough though. Is the foam used in these older boards strong enough to mount these?

I put two 1/4 plywood stringers on either side of the fin boxes to take the torque. My board is built just like a windsurfing board. High density polystyrene wrapped with 3mm divinycell. It’s more than strong enough.

Aaron

Thanks for the info. As I have basically no glassing experience I might have to go the through bolt option unless I can find some videos/guides on the net. Do the plywood stringers sit right next to, i.e touching the fin box?

lots of videos on the net. very simple process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmrMczUCgwE. the fin box should be epoxied to the plywood stringers to transfer the load, otherwise it serves no purpose at all.

Aaron

Has anyone tried or conceptualized using a GoFoil-like single tuttle box? More specifically, how to route the motor wires?

Have any details been shared for a GoFoil mast cross-section?

Hey, Future fin second generation US box 8 in are perfect already did few boards with it. If small board between 110 to 130 mast rail starts between 20 to 27 cm from the back. Cheers

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Here are some details on my carbon board shared on this thread: Proposed Build - Carbon - #2 by VeFoil - Foils & Boards - FOIL.zone

Every carbon mast that is not hollow face the same issue.
You can follow this example: http://www.efoil.builders/t/french-build-born-in-lyon/2197?u=soefoil

Not very aesthetic but you can use double face scotch tape between mast and “skirt” to hold everything in place without impact on speed.

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http://www.gemlux.com/catalog/Retail-Compression-Latch-Kits/5124-11-KIT