You didn’t heed my warning! I really hope you don’t have the same problems I did with the new i3 machine…
Nonetheless, if you want to print ABS or PC your going to need an enclosure. Lots of cheap options out there. I went with the ikea lack box approach which works well and is quite nice (photo attached). Happy to share the CAD bits a pieces that are 3D printed. If you going to print ASA no need. If your going to print carbon, your going to need a hardened steel nozzle or a something that can deal with the abrasion.
Honestly, my best advice is not to mess with the settings that comes loaded in prusa’s sli3er. They are pretty much dialed in for the machine out of the box. That is if your going to print with the matierals preloaded into the software.
Read this article back to front. So when you have problems, you know where to looks quickly without following the rabbit down the hole. The guys on the live chat are pretty good at helping out. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#blobs-and-zits
Make up some calibration blocks. A cylinder, square, pipe, and square with a hole in it should do. Print them out at varying shell thickness and infill to get a feel for your printers tolerances. Double check them at 2 different sizes with the matierals your going to print parts out of. All materials shrink or in some cases don’t shrink. So you’ll need to design your parts accordingly. Personally I notice that small bolt holes shrink much more than larger cylindrical or square parts. You just need to get a feel for your printer.
I’m not an expert so I can only attest to my own experiences. I’m assuming that you want to print your parts out of PC-max? Why not right? It’s pretty much the strongest stuff money can buy other than some of the crazy carbon stuff out there for $250 a roll!
So… Printing PC-max:
- Get a copy of simplify 3D. Slic3r raft settings are garbage and if you print on buildtak with sli3er… Get ready to throw you new sheet away. There’s a copy of it on the Web if your into that kind of thing. It also has a far superior custom support option!
- Always use buildtak (comes free with every roll)
- Always print with a raft! Otherwise you’ll never ever get your prints off the builtak. You part will fuse with the sheet. 2 Layers is enough. 100% RAFT INFILL IS A MUST!
- Follow the recommendations from polymaker (I find my prusa runs hot, so I print 5 degrees cooler).youll have to figure this out yourself using the link above.
- Check the print speed settings. I obtain excellent quality prints and excellent Layer fusion (no need to worry about water getting in) printing around 45mm/s @0.2mm layer height and 60mm/s infill.
- Print a skirt to help prime the nozzle at the start.
Honestly other than the simplify 3D stipulation, follow what polymaker recommends and you’ll be fine.
The only other thing I can think of right now is to always triple check how the slicer carved up your part. Sometimes it does just insane things. I find myself going back and forth between the settings and the print preview 4 or 5 times in an effort to minimise the stupidity sometimes.
Let me know if you have any issues. I’ll try and help.